Difference between revisions of "3d printer"

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−
This page is about SkullSpace's eventual 3d printer (and hopefully, soon, about our current 3d printer)!
+
[[Category:Fabrication]]
  
−
On January 23, 2013, Ron emailed announce@ to solicit donations for the printer. So far, we've had pledges of (the numbers are for my (Ron's) reference):
+
{{Template:EquipmentPage
−
* $100 (1)
+
|owner = SkullSpace
−
* $100 (2)
+
|training = YES
−
* $100 (3)
+
|hackable = NO
−
* $100 (4)
+
|model = MendelMax 2.0 Beta
−
* $100 (5)
+
|serial = n/a
−
* $200 (6)
+
|arrived = April 2013
−
* $50 (7)
+
|doesitwork = WORKING
−
* $50 (8)
+
|contact = Ben Bergman/Stefan Asmundsson/Andrew Orr
 +
|where = n/a
 +
|value = $1700
 +
|itemphoto=[[File:3dprinter_1.jpg]]
 +
}}
  
−
For a total of $800 of our $1350 goal!
+
==Label==
 +
[[File:Mendelmax_label.png|700px]]
  
−
==Proposal==
+
==MendelMax 2.0 Specs==
−
Hey everybody,
+
http://www.makerstoolworks.com/support-and-docs/
 +
* Print Area Dimensions: 245 mm x 315 mm x 225 mm
 +
* Print Area: 17,364.8 cm3
 +
* Printer Dimensions: 450 mm x 340 mm x 460 mm
 +
* Usable Maximum Print Speed: 250mm/sec or more depending on the part, print material, and extruder
 +
* Usable Maximum Movement Speed: 500+ mm/sec
 +
* Layer Height: .1-.4mm, user selectable. Lower layer heights are also possible.
 +
* X & Y Axis Resolution: .0125mm
 +
* Frame: All aluminum
 +
* Movement: linear rail (X and Y axis), precision shafting and bushing (Z axis)
 +
* Heated Bed: 24V 200W Heated Bed included
 +
* Power Requirements: 110-220 VAC
 +
* Hotend: J-Head Mk V-BV 0.4 mm / 3.0 mm
  
−
Ben Bergman knows somebody who's selling a 3d printer. He has pictures
+
==Dedicated Printer Workstation==
−
and stuff that he can post later, but for now, the important info is:
+
There is a dedicated 3D printer workstation right next to the printer. This is running Ubuntu 12.04 and has FreeCAD, Slic3r, and Printrun (Pronterface, Pronsole, etc.) set up and ready to go. All the parts (monitor, tower, mouse, keyboard) are labelled and should stay with the workstation at all times.
  
−
- It's worth about $1500 new, it's being sold for $1000
+
==How to print ('''Work In Progress''')==
−
- There are 7 spools of plastic refills for $50 each (retail price is $65)
 
  
−
So basically, if we can raise $1350, we can buy SkullSpace a 3d printer!
+
Due to recent adjustments and firmware updates, the instructions on how to use the printer are currently being reworked. Don't even think about going to a previous version of this wiki page to find them.
−
This is an all-or-nothing thing, so please email me off-list and tell me
 
−
what you're willing to contribute (I'll personally put in $100). A few
 
−
others at the Awesome Foundation meeting last night offered to put in,
 
−
as well, so please let me know who you were.
 
  
−
If we manage to get enough donations to make the $1350, we'll go forward
+
===Choosing the right temperature===
−
with this. Then plan would be to leave it set up at the space, and maybe
+
For ABS, 210c was working good for us. What you should do it heat the hotend up to 230 or so and try extruding 10mm and watch it carefully. If it smokes, bring the temp down to 220 and try again, you want it just under where it smokes.
−
take it with us to special events if it's mobile enough (I don't know
 
−
much about this stuff, obviously). It would be free for anybody to use,
 
−
but we'd ask for donations for material (like the drink machine fund).
 
  
−
Here's Ben's proposal, from the Awesome Foundation site (reprinted with
+
===ABS on bare glass===
−
implied oral permission, not express written permission):
+
OhmEye says he prints ABS on bare glass:
−
--
 
−
I would like to purchase a 3D printer to use in my open hardware
 
−
projects. Open hardware is where all the design files for recreating
 
−
some physical object are fully published and available to anyone that
 
−
wants to recreate it with whatever changes they want. To facsilitate the
 
−
spreading of the open hardware movement and the utility of 3D printing,
 
−
I would like to bring this 3D printer with me to public events where
 
−
people can try it for themselves and see what is possible with this
 
−
up-and-coming technology. The ability to quickly create a prototype
 
−
object greatly improves the ability to bring an interesting project to
 
−
fruition.
 
  
−
When not is use at events, the 3D printer would be located at
+
(13:59) ( OhmEye) xorrbit:  I use 135-140C for the glass temp and first layer speed of 30mm/s with ultimachine ABS and can print most things with only minor lifting issues if I don't have any breeze in the room.
−
SkullSpace, Winnipeg's hackerspace, to grant easy access for others
 
−
interested in 3D printing and open hardware. SkullSpace has open events
 
−
multiple times per week which would make a good time for non-members
 
−
interested in these things to drop by and try things out.
 
  
−
There are other organizations that have 3D printers available, but their
+
==Todo==
−
memberships can be prohibitively expensive for hobbyists or people
+
* Tuning (see below)
−
trying to start small side businesses. Easier access to one of these
+
* Make sure there are no "spare parts" sitting around that are actually needed and were missed
−
tools will aide in the creation of more great devices and local
+
* Flash Arduino Mega 2560 *bootloader* using ISP so we can update firmware from linux
−
businesses.
+
* Install heatsinks on pololus (Andrew has ordered these)
−
--
+
* Install/mount fans on heatsinks on pololus (Andrew has ordered these)
 +
*Install end stops and configure homing
 +
**We should do homing like below if we can, a cursory look at the firmware config file suggest that we can  
 +
***[http://hydraraptor.blogspot.ca/2012/06/only-way-is-up.html hydraraptor.blogspot.ca/2012/06/only-way-is-up.html]
 +
*Verify/configure software end stops and axis dimensions in firmware config file
 +
* Install power switch
 +
* Cover up 120v exposures
 +
** Cover for power supply terminals
 +
** Grounded box for ac plug
 +
* Replace the rest of the temp plastic clips with zip ties
 +
* Print/acquire cable chain for carriage wiring and X motor wiring
 +
* Set up dedicated computer with pronterface, slic3r, and freecad
 +
* Nice big "don't touch you will get burned" / etc sign should be printed and displayed
 +
* UPS of some kind for long print jobs
 +
* Webcam for monitoring print status
  
−
==Printer details==
+
==Tuning==
−
From the current owner's email:
+
* Extruder hotend and bed thermistors were both verified to be working properly
 +
* Z axis was raised to prevent grinding and leveled
 +
* Extruder
 +
** Discovered high print speed causes abs to accumulate in the gear threads which causes slippage
 +
** 300 mm/min is way too fast
 +
** folks on irc say keep it at 80 mm/min for calibration
 +
** 220c seems to work good
 +
* Bed needs to be leveled *again*
 +
Links:
  
−
* Makerbot Think-O-Matic #5118
+
http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration
−
** Purchased on July 20 2012 for $1299 US
 
−
** MK6+ extruder for 3mm filament
 
−
** Machine works very very well
 
−
** I now have a replicator with 1.75 filament (reason for selling this one)
 
−
* Makerbot Gen 4 interface Kit v1.1
 
−
** Purchased on July 20 2012 for $85 US
 
−
* Runs the new SailFish firmware with Acceleration
 
−
** Works very fast but may still need some “tuning”
 
−
* Modifications:
 
−
** Spring and bearing extruder
 
−
*** Improves the feeding of the filament
 
−
** Removable Heated Build Platform
 
−
** Linear bearings on X & Y axis’s
 
−
*** Replaced brass bushings
 
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*** Very smooth
 
−
** LED light around extruder
 
−
** Rebuilt cabling for heated build platform
 
−
** X axis tensioner replaced with bearings
 
−
** I have printed a replacement bearing tensioner for the Y axis
 
−
*** No time to install it yet
 
−
* I will provide support to help you get it running
 
−
* I can drop by your place and help you spin it up
 
−
* One partial spool of 3mm black ABS filament included
 
−
** Value of $56
 
−
** 80% of a roll still remaining
 
−
* All the above for $1000
 
−
** Price new would be $1500 + extras I printed + taxes+shipping (yes I paid the GST and PST taxes at the border)
 
  
−
I also have the following 3mm ABS filament for sale: (retail price is about $6 more each+tax+shipping)
+
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
−
* Black - $50
+
 
−
* Blue - $50
+
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
−
* Natural - $45
+
 
−
* Nuclear Green - $60
+
==Things we need to print==
−
* Forest Green - $50
+
Stef printed the x end stop, y end stop, z end stop, and fan mounts!
−
* Yellow - $50
+
 
−
* White (3/4 roll) - $25
+
STL Archives:
−
* Red (1/2 roll) - $25
+
 
 +
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3uyotd400xp2ef5/AvakF1Vw25/STLs
 +
 
 +
http://ohmeye.com/download/mendelmax/
 +
 
 +
* Fan duct
 +
** https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6615t9t9bzuu1y3/pjrQtghBRT
 +
* cable chains
 +
** As per https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/95642557/XCableChain1.jpg and https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/95642557/XCableChain2.jpg
 +
** http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40124
 +
** ScottGreen on #makerstoolworks has some cable chain end STLS he should be posting soon
 +
 
 +
==Flashing new firmware==
 +
 
 +
http://www.makerstoolworks.com/support-and-docs/download-center/
 +
 
 +
Currently we have the MendelMax 2.0 no end stop firmware running on it, modified to use a baud rate of 230400. It uses an Arduino clone called the Taurino that is similar to a Arduino Mega 2560.
 +
 
 +
The flashing procedure is to load up the Arduino software and configure it as for an Arduino Mega 2560, compile and flash. It did not work on linux but worked worked fine on Windows with the Taurino drivers installed.
 +
 
 +
Okay so apparently the default taurino *bootloader* does not work with mac/linux so we need to flash the normal Arduino Mega 2560 bootloader onto it. This has to be done using an ISP programmer or another arduino actiing as ISP. After this is done we should be able to flash new firmware via mac/linux.
 +
 
 +
===Post-flash verification steps===
 +
After flashing a new firmware a few things should be sanity checked:
 +
 
 +
NOTE: NEVER unplug a motor while the MendelMax is powered (even via usb!), these motors idle charged and unplugging them while powered will blow a pololu motor driver (and this costs $15 per driver!)
 +
 
 +
* extruder are not running reversed
 +
* x, y, z motors are not running reversed
 +
 
 +
==Software==
 +
===Slicing===
 +
http://slic3r.org/
 +
 
 +
slic3r is a popular slicer and OhmEye has a MM2 tuned config here we can start from:
 +
 
 +
http://ohmeye.com/download/mendelmax/ohmeye_slic3r_mm2_example.ini
 +
 
 +
( OhmEye) that config file I linked is set for a .35mm nozzle with .25mm layers using sane settings.
 +
 
 +
( OhmEye) I make heavy use of slic3r's presets to manage a lot of configs. One thing I seem to do differently from most people is that I avoid as much printer or filament specific settings in my config as I can, so no heater control or filament adjustments.
 +
 
 +
( OhmEye) I adjust temps and extrusion flow at the printer so I can print the same gcode file without reslicing with any filament
 +
 
 +
( OhmEye) when I change filament, I just adjust the temp and flow settings and am good to go
 +
 
 +
===Printer control===
 +
Control it with Pronterface using a baud rate of 230400.
 +
 
 +
The stock MendelMax firmware has the extruder running backwards so the plug shoud be flipped (ie blue wire away from the power connector).
 +
 
 +
We are working on setting up a dedicated computer for slicing stls and running prints.
 +
 
 +
===Modelling===
 +
FreeCAD is the recommended modeling tool, but anything that can produce STLs should work:
 +
 
 +
http://www.freecadweb.org/
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Build Issues  ==
 +
 
 +
A list of issue we had when building and how we fixed it, suitable as feedback to the beta program:
 +
 
 +
*Plate had wrong side counter-sinks
 +
**MakersToolWorks guy said to use low profile screws, so we picked some up from home depot and it works great
 +
*One of the tighter tolerance car bushings had the alignment notch in the wrong spot
 +
**We snipped off the alignment notch as we determined it was not required
 +
*Missing allen key for securing belt pulleys to X and Y motor shafts.
 +
**Andrew had one he used to secure belt pulleys to the motor shafts (1.25mm).
 +
*Guide rail for y-axis not countersunk.
 +
**Working with minimal clearance between rail mounting screws and bed leveling screw. Be careful when adjusting level on the single arm of the bed mounting plate.<br>

Latest revision as of 05:53, 1 November 2015

Back to list of Equipment

3dprinter 1.jpg

General

  • Owner/Loaner: SkullSpace
  • Serial Number: n/a
  • Make/Model: MendelMax 2.0 Beta
  • Arrival Date: April 2013
  • Usability: WORKING
  • Contact: Ben Bergman/Stefan Asmundsson/Andrew Orr
  • Where: n/a
  • Training Needed: YES
  • Hackable: NO
  • Estimated Value: $1700

Label

Mendelmax label.png

MendelMax 2.0 Specs

http://www.makerstoolworks.com/support-and-docs/

  • Print Area Dimensions: 245 mm x 315 mm x 225 mm
  • Print Area: 17,364.8 cm3
  • Printer Dimensions: 450 mm x 340 mm x 460 mm
  • Usable Maximum Print Speed: 250mm/sec or more depending on the part, print material, and extruder
  • Usable Maximum Movement Speed: 500+ mm/sec
  • Layer Height: .1-.4mm, user selectable. Lower layer heights are also possible.
  • X & Y Axis Resolution: .0125mm
  • Frame: All aluminum
  • Movement: linear rail (X and Y axis), precision shafting and bushing (Z axis)
  • Heated Bed: 24V 200W Heated Bed included
  • Power Requirements: 110-220 VAC
  • Hotend: J-Head Mk V-BV 0.4 mm / 3.0 mm

Dedicated Printer Workstation

There is a dedicated 3D printer workstation right next to the printer. This is running Ubuntu 12.04 and has FreeCAD, Slic3r, and Printrun (Pronterface, Pronsole, etc.) set up and ready to go. All the parts (monitor, tower, mouse, keyboard) are labelled and should stay with the workstation at all times.

How to print (Work In Progress)

Due to recent adjustments and firmware updates, the instructions on how to use the printer are currently being reworked. Don't even think about going to a previous version of this wiki page to find them.

Choosing the right temperature

For ABS, 210c was working good for us. What you should do it heat the hotend up to 230 or so and try extruding 10mm and watch it carefully. If it smokes, bring the temp down to 220 and try again, you want it just under where it smokes.

ABS on bare glass

OhmEye says he prints ABS on bare glass:

(13:59) ( OhmEye) xorrbit: I use 135-140C for the glass temp and first layer speed of 30mm/s with ultimachine ABS and can print most things with only minor lifting issues if I don't have any breeze in the room.

Todo

  • Tuning (see below)
  • Make sure there are no "spare parts" sitting around that are actually needed and were missed
  • Flash Arduino Mega 2560 *bootloader* using ISP so we can update firmware from linux
  • Install heatsinks on pololus (Andrew has ordered these)
  • Install/mount fans on heatsinks on pololus (Andrew has ordered these)
  • Install end stops and configure homing
  • Verify/configure software end stops and axis dimensions in firmware config file
  • Install power switch
  • Cover up 120v exposures
    • Cover for power supply terminals
    • Grounded box for ac plug
  • Replace the rest of the temp plastic clips with zip ties
  • Print/acquire cable chain for carriage wiring and X motor wiring
  • Set up dedicated computer with pronterface, slic3r, and freecad
  • Nice big "don't touch you will get burned" / etc sign should be printed and displayed
  • UPS of some kind for long print jobs
  • Webcam for monitoring print status

Tuning

  • Extruder hotend and bed thermistors were both verified to be working properly
  • Z axis was raised to prevent grinding and leveled
  • Extruder
    • Discovered high print speed causes abs to accumulate in the gear threads which causes slippage
    • 300 mm/min is way too fast
    • folks on irc say keep it at 80 mm/min for calibration
    • 220c seems to work good
  • Bed needs to be leveled *again*

Links:

http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration

http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Things we need to print

Stef printed the x end stop, y end stop, z end stop, and fan mounts!

STL Archives:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3uyotd400xp2ef5/AvakF1Vw25/STLs

http://ohmeye.com/download/mendelmax/

Flashing new firmware

http://www.makerstoolworks.com/support-and-docs/download-center/

Currently we have the MendelMax 2.0 no end stop firmware running on it, modified to use a baud rate of 230400. It uses an Arduino clone called the Taurino that is similar to a Arduino Mega 2560.

The flashing procedure is to load up the Arduino software and configure it as for an Arduino Mega 2560, compile and flash. It did not work on linux but worked worked fine on Windows with the Taurino drivers installed.

Okay so apparently the default taurino *bootloader* does not work with mac/linux so we need to flash the normal Arduino Mega 2560 bootloader onto it. This has to be done using an ISP programmer or another arduino actiing as ISP. After this is done we should be able to flash new firmware via mac/linux.

Post-flash verification steps

After flashing a new firmware a few things should be sanity checked:

NOTE: NEVER unplug a motor while the MendelMax is powered (even via usb!), these motors idle charged and unplugging them while powered will blow a pololu motor driver (and this costs $15 per driver!)

  • extruder are not running reversed
  • x, y, z motors are not running reversed

Software

Slicing

http://slic3r.org/

slic3r is a popular slicer and OhmEye has a MM2 tuned config here we can start from:

http://ohmeye.com/download/mendelmax/ohmeye_slic3r_mm2_example.ini

( OhmEye) that config file I linked is set for a .35mm nozzle with .25mm layers using sane settings.

( OhmEye) I make heavy use of slic3r's presets to manage a lot of configs. One thing I seem to do differently from most people is that I avoid as much printer or filament specific settings in my config as I can, so no heater control or filament adjustments.

( OhmEye) I adjust temps and extrusion flow at the printer so I can print the same gcode file without reslicing with any filament

( OhmEye) when I change filament, I just adjust the temp and flow settings and am good to go

Printer control

Control it with Pronterface using a baud rate of 230400.

The stock MendelMax firmware has the extruder running backwards so the plug shoud be flipped (ie blue wire away from the power connector).

We are working on setting up a dedicated computer for slicing stls and running prints.

Modelling

FreeCAD is the recommended modeling tool, but anything that can produce STLs should work:

http://www.freecadweb.org/


Build Issues

A list of issue we had when building and how we fixed it, suitable as feedback to the beta program:

  • Plate had wrong side counter-sinks
    • MakersToolWorks guy said to use low profile screws, so we picked some up from home depot and it works great
  • One of the tighter tolerance car bushings had the alignment notch in the wrong spot
    • We snipped off the alignment notch as we determined it was not required
  • Missing allen key for securing belt pulleys to X and Y motor shafts.
    • Andrew had one he used to secure belt pulleys to the motor shafts (1.25mm).
  • Guide rail for y-axis not countersunk.
    • Working with minimal clearance between rail mounting screws and bed leveling screw. Be careful when adjusting level on the single arm of the bed mounting plate.
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